Let’s talk about how cool Photo RAW 2020’s new printing engine is. In this video, I’ll walk you through how I handle color management before I soft-proof, test-print and then create a 20″x20 final print with ease.
We’ve seen a lot of questions about printing and color management lately in the forums and posts, so I’m working on a course to cover everything you need to know. Until then I hope you enjoy this video.
On January 15, 2020 at 12:57 pm David Price wrote:
Hi Hudson
Looking forward to the course. As I am sure that I still have lots to learn. However, I used to struggle in the Prints Section of the Camera Club. Your set the monitor to 80 Cd advice, and your advice on Proofing was spot on. 🙂
Last night, all three of my prints were scored as Commended. On a night when the Judge dismissed print after print for technical faults. “Muddy”. “Too contrasty”. “Wonky colours”. “Too Dark”. etc.
Which a couple of years ago is what the Judge would have said about almost every one of my prints, on a competition night.
Thanks again. And please, when you put the videos together, don’t forget those of us who have to send our prints to a lab ?
Best wishes, David Price
On January 24, 2020 at 2:10 pm Hudson Henry replied:
Thanks so much David! That’s just great to hear. Let me know what you think in the forum after you watch.
On January 16, 2020 at 3:30 am Mark Osman wrote:
Excellent, thank you. You are a very good presenter Hudson, and this episode is another gem. I especially appreciate your suggested settings and rationale behind them in this and other videos e.g. I concur totally after much trial and error with profiling monitor to 80cd/m2 to fix the very common “my prints are too dark” complaint and revisiting sharpness, Whites and Blacks, contrast and saturation after enabling soft proofing to fix the “Why are my prints a bit muddy?” . Very useful.
The advice on printing from Browse module resolved a few issues I saw too.
Setting print size to Custom to get the dimensions right for a 1″ border was really appreciated too for those of us who mount prints and need that space around an image.
You suggested a future episode on Resize which remains an open question for me when printing; when to crop, or use Resize and how to use the ON1 Print module..Print Area..Custom Size Width and Height boxes to set different print sizes to get the right borders on different paper sizes which I’m struggling to fully grasp as they each crop/resize to a different/ similar degree and I can’t follow the print area Custom Size logic !
On January 24, 2020 at 2:12 pm Hudson Henry replied:
Hey Mark. Thanks for the feedback. I’ll note those requests for another vid!
On January 21, 2020 at 4:19 pm Julie Boyle wrote:
I have been disappointed with printing my images for so long. They appear to be much darker when printed and you advice on 80cd may be the answer to my problem. Off to check the settings on my monitor profile. Thank you – great tutorial.
On January 24, 2020 at 2:12 pm Hudson Henry replied:
Sure hope it helps Julie. I think most people are editing with their screens WAY too bright.
On January 22, 2020 at 10:05 am Dennis Adams wrote:
I too have been disappointed with images darker than anticipated. I’ll revisit my monitor calibration per your recommendations. One burning question is why you print from the browse module rather than from edit. Paper choice is also on my learning curve. Have you done or are you planning a course/video addressing this? Thanks much!
On January 24, 2020 at 2:15 pm Hudson Henry replied:
Hey Dennis. It makes it easier to pick multiple prints at once and you’re not really editing as you print. You can go from either place though.
Paper choice question is noted. I’d have you try out some ‘luster” papers. they have a nice texture, but very broad dynamic range for eye popping color and contrast. I love Epson premium luster and it’s a bargain. It’s a great choice for starting out.
On January 22, 2020 at 5:42 pm James Lassoie wrote:
HH…
Great overview of the ON1 print module…with a supper cool image! As you know from past correspondence I’ve been struggling to get large prints out of my Epson P5000. This video gave me a couple of steps to check in the printing work flow. I’ll let you know. Also, you mentioned one time about perhaps pulling together a printing training course …maybe a shoot to print session over a few days…hey, Portland, OR has some nice natural spots plus some great human-dominated urban landscapes. Always await your ON1 Plus training videos.
Cheers
Jim
On January 24, 2020 at 2:16 pm Hudson Henry replied:
We will be putting together a print workshop soon in Portland. I’d say it will be late in the year. Keep your eye peeled and make sure you’re on my mailing list. 🙂 We’d love to have you.
On January 25, 2020 at 10:56 am James Lassoie replied:
it’s a deal…I think I’m on your mailing list
On February 7, 2020 at 1:29 pm Luc Poirier wrote:
Hi Hudson
Great presentation. From your previous printing training over a year ago, I adopted your soft-proofing method with great results thanks again for it. My printer is an epson 3880, and because I don’t do commercial work I use non OEM inks instead I use inkowl for the P800 printer with so far great success. My printer is calibrated for the inks and papers that I use with X-Rite Colormunki using their newer X-Rite software. My question is :
How to protect prints from fading other than using OEM epson inks with papers that do not contain brightners or protecting the prints in a photo frame under glass ?
I heard some spray can improve print longevity, if so do you have one that you would recommend ?
Regards
Luc
On February 14, 2020 at 11:26 am Hudson Henry replied:
Hey Luc,
You bet I do. Here it is: https://amzn.to/31VfrPz I’ve used it to great effect on mounted prints in my own home. 12 years on they still look great even where sunlight is sometimes on them.
On February 12, 2020 at 9:28 am Randy Roth wrote:
Hi Hudson,
I’m just beginning to get into printing my images, but have found all your videos on the subject very helpful. This latest one led me to a question I don’t know if you’ve ever commented on – the type of lighting in the room that you do your analysis of the prints. Ideally, shouldn’t it match the room in which the print will be displayed? I’m probably over thinking this, but just wanted to run it by you.
Thanks.
Randy
On February 14, 2020 at 11:33 am Hudson Henry replied:
Hey Randy,
If I were doing museum work, then I’d definitely color calibrate my monitor to their display lighting white balance and proof the work under the right temperature lights. I generally do work that will be in a mix or daylight (from windows, tungsten from LED and incandescent bulbs and/or fluorescent. For the most part people put warm light in their homes. I buy warm LEDs for my house and I think that’s the trend. I calibrate my screen to the standard 6500k and keep my studio a balance of daylight and tungsten just like the environments the work is generally displayed. I’m not too fussy about it. Others may differ, but I’ve had zero complaints. 🙂
On March 6, 2020 at 9:53 am Randy Roth replied:
Hudson,
Thanks for the reply. I’m finding all the videos/courses you’re putting out really helpful.
On February 13, 2020 at 12:29 pm Norry Cutler wrote:
Hi Hudson,
I have been doing my printing in Photoshop.
a) I duplicate the image to use that as my non-soft proofed version (screen image).
b) Set up the soft-proofing on original just like in Photoraw and can make adjustments contrast etc as you described in your video.
c)I can toggle switch between original and screen image to compare the images to see how my adjustments to the original in soft proofed mode achieve an acceptable match to the duplicate (screen image).
I can’t do that in Photoraw as both the original and created version are in soft proofed mode by default. I don’t have a screen image.
Am I doing something wrong in my soft proofing method in Photoshop?
My screen image in Photoshop is always brighter than the original in soft proofed mode. When you say that you calibrate your monitor to 80 candelas, does that mean the screen image will always be the same brightness as the original in soft proofed mode?
Thanks
Norry Cutler
On February 14, 2020 at 11:38 am Hudson Henry replied:
Hey Norry. That’s not a bad way to do it. I have a way I do a similar thing in LR where I can have the non-soft proofed image up beside the soft proofed one and adjust it looking at both. I’m pushing for a similar workflow to come in PR. No on the 80 cd/m2 question. That’s just to keep your monitor at a brightness level for your initial editing that will make for bright exciting prints. It should always be set at that otherwise your images will look dark on a well calibrated system. In practice no one ever complains of images looking to bright on their screen. If you edit to taste on a bright screen though, then your digital images will look dark and muddy on my screen when I view them (say for photo critiques) and you will definitely get dark prints. You’ll have less work soft proofing if you edit on a 80cd/m2 monitor, but you’ll still see a reduction in Dynamic range, saturation and contrast when you flip into soft proof mode. That’s particularly true of matte papers.
On February 13, 2020 at 2:41 pm Ed Adams wrote:
great video full of needed information. I can’t wait for the color management class. Definitely being a plus member is worth it.
Two thoughts –
1. I think that is actually a moth?
2. Get back on a MAC… laughs
On February 14, 2020 at 11:43 am Hudson Henry replied:
I think it’s a butterfly, but it’s not my image. You’ll have to take it up with Amy. 🙂
No complaints at all moving to the PC desktop. They don’t make a desktop Mac for me anymore. If i have to spend more than 2.5 x’s the money to get an equivalent spec’ed modular desktop (but I can’t even have Nvidia’s CUDA engine for video editing), sorry I’m out. I do like to keep a foot in both worlds though. If I continue to hear good things from my friends about the new 16″ MBP, then I’ll probably drop the cash on replacing my 15″ Touchbar with the awful keyboard. I’m sorry but Mac has made some moves I question in the past few years.
On February 14, 2020 at 10:28 am James Kohler wrote:
Another excellent lesson from Hudson!! While I have been printing for years I always learn something new from Hudson. For my printing I have three printers: Epson R2000, Epson SureColor P600 and an Epson Stylus Pro 7600. Keep these great tutorials coming!!
On February 14, 2020 at 11:44 am Hudson Henry replied:
Nice! Great to hear from you James. Thanks so much.
On February 15, 2020 at 9:51 pm Brad Cherson wrote:
Hudson. CAn you comment on adding paper profiles, how to do this in on1 2020
Thanks
On March 27, 2020 at 10:33 am Hudson Henry replied:
Hey Brad, When you install profiles on your system (mac or PC) they go into a specific location that Photo RAW looks in. The next time you start the software it should see and present that preset as an option. There’s no need to install them. 🙂